8 June 2024: Melun & Le Dôme
It Was the Best of Times, It Was the Worst of Times
The day started with frustration and chaos that led to the serendipitous discovery of a beautiful town and ended with a memorable meal in a top Parisian restaurant.
Highlights Slideshow
The Visit to Fontainebleau That Wasn’t
I was introduced to the concept that interesting things happen at the edge of chaos in the novel Jurassic Park by Michael Crichton.
Today interesting things did happen.
The plan was to visit the Château de Fontainebleau (a World Heritage Site) situated about 55 km southeast of Paris. Louis XIV used it as a summer residence and it was there that Napoleon Bonaparte spent the last days of his reign before abdicating on 4 April 1814.
Jacques Hotteterre, one of Louis XIV’s favoured court musicians, titled the Allemande in his Suite for Transverse Flute in E minor (Op. 2) La Fontainebleau.
It is a palace neither of us had visited. Today was going to be the day. The weather was great. All we had to do was get to Gare de Lyon, buy our train tickets and have another big day out.
Gare de Lyon is a huge and chaotic train station (not on the edge of chaos: right in the middle of it). There were a LOT of people and luggage. The signage is not as helpful as it could be (good luck finding a toilet). God knows how Paris is going to cope with the Olympics. The trouble we had is probably due to disruptions caused by preparations for said Olympics.
We had expected to find a ticket office where we could talk to a person, buy a ticket and be directed to the relevant platform. Well – that’s not a thing anymore. Instead you have to deal with ticket vending machines, but it turns out you have to use the right machine. But there’s no one to tell you which one you need (a Catch-22 situation).
The first machine accepted our input destination of Fontainebleau (we chose it from a menu of options), you then have to choose the type of ticket (single or return etc). It would only allow us to buy one ticket at a time (very annoying). Finally it thinks for a bit and then says no. No explanation: it just refused to sell us a ticket. Who designs a ticket machine that lets you chose an option it can’t act on?
A helpful person directed us to another part of the station (a good 150 metres away) where the Transilien Line R trains depart. There were three ticket machines (different colour to the previous one) with long queues. One machine wasn’t working and there was some heated discussion going on with three railway workers next to the machine. It didn’t look like they were trying to fix the machine.
Cathy and I each joined a different queue to increase our chances of success. Many people seemed to be struggling with keying in their requests over multiple screens. And you can only buy. one. ticket. at. a. time. It was taking forever. We were hoping to get to the edge of chaos because pure chaos sucks.
Finally we had our tickets to Fontainebleau with 15 minutes before the next train was due to leave. The train was packed but we managed find seats. We were home and hosed.
Except we weren’t. The train departed on time, but it soon became clear that it was only going to Melun (the stop before Fontainebleau) and that we’d have to change to a bus to get to Fontainebleau. Another disruption (caused by Olympic preparations?).
The Final Straw
Did I mention the train was packed?
On the platform at Melun.
We slowly headed down some stairs and turned right into a corridor leading to the exit barriers where you scan your ticket to get out of the station.
The corridor leading to the exit barriers.
One of the exit barriers was broken.
The bus station was a few minutes walk from the station. Most of the crowd headed there. We found the bus stop for Fontainebleau but there were already more people waiting than would fit on just one bus. Surely there’d be many buses provided for such an important tourist destination.
Cathy and I looked at each other. We’d independently decided the same thing. Ditch Fontainebleau. Let’s explore Melun!
Melun
This is where interesting things started to happen.
Melun is lovely. We’d never heard of it and would never have thought of visiting it. But we really enjoyed our time there. It was great to get out of a big city and away from the crowds.
First order of business was to grab a bite to eat. We each had an OK Pave de Salmon (fillet of salmon) with chips (unexpected as the handwritten specials board said ‘fresh vegetables and quinoa’) and an excellent expresso (French for espresso) in the appropriately named Brasserie du Pont overlooking one of the bridges over the Seine.
A Bit of Background
Melun is about 45 km south-east of Paris.
Like Paris, it is situated on both banks of the Seine, and its ancient church of Notre-Dame stands on an island between two branches of the river.
Built in the 11th century, the church underwent several alterations before being completely restored in the 19th century.
View of Notre-Dame from Pont Maréchal Leclerc.
The fine 17th-century château of Vaux-le-Vicomte stands 6 km northeast of the town.
Melun, which was called Melodunum by the Romans, became the favourite residence of the kings of France in medieval times. It was seriously damaged by bombing in World War II.
Located on the northern edge of the Fontainebleau Forest, the town is a commercial centre for the agricultural district of southern Brie and is also the département’s principal administrative centre.
A Town with a Long History
Le Prieuré Saint-Sauveur
This priory is located on the island and the sign says it was used in the 11th, 12th and 16th centuries.
Pont Jeanne d’Arc
In 1415 Melun had been besieged by the English King Henry V. He’d undertaken a chevauchée, a destructive raid through the French countryside aimed at disrupting, terrorising and economically damaging the lands of the French king Charles VI (Charles the Mad). The power struggle was settled in England’s favour at the Battle of Agincourt on 25 October 1415.
Henry’s occupation of Melun was part of his strategy to control key locations in France and so consolidate English power during the latter phases of the Hundred Years’ War.
Jean d’Arc was the figurehead, military planner and a leader of the campaign to reclaim French territories. She liberated Melun on 17 April 1430.
View looking southeast from Pont Jean d’Arc
So peaceful. Just gorgeous.
I was reminded of Flodden Field which had also witnessed much death and destruction.
L’Église Saint-Aspais (16th century)
AI translation of the information board outside the church:
The bishop of Sens is said to have sent Saint Aspais, priest and confessor, to evangelise Melun in the 5th century. The Church of Saint-Aspais was cited in 1080 by Richer, Archbishop of Sens.
The current church is larger than the original building. The façade and the first bays were rebuilt in 1505 on the site of demolished houses.
The Parisian architect Jehan de Felin raised the choir from 1517 to 1519, proceeding with the destruction of the original choir, a chapel dedicated to the Virgin, and the relocation of the tombs of the Malhotse family (wealthy merchants established in Melun since the 15th century).
The reconstruction of the entire building was completed in 1555 according to the plans of Jehan de Felin, to whom members of the parish council of works reproached a decor that was too abundant, composed of the most recent elements of Flamboyant architecture.
The cost-saving measures requested [by the parish council] were probably the cause of multiple collapses of the vaults from 1598 to 1703.
During the bombings of August 1944, the spire and the bell tower were destroyed, the collapsed vaults, the nave, the drum of the main portal and the 18th-century organs burned, the roof partially blown off.
The vaults of the nave were reconstructed and the windows were restored in 1956, while the remarkable 16th-century stained glass windows, fortunately dismantled before 1944, were reinstalled.
A beautiful example of late Gothic, the Church of Saint-Aspais, restored between 1997 and 1999, is also remarkable for the originality of its trapezoidal plan and its contemporary stained glass windows.
The church was not open, so I cannot share any images of the interior. It sounds fantastic.
Plan shown on the information board outside the church.
I am so disappointed we didn’t get to see inside. I’ve never seen anything like this plan.
A Celebration
We went in search of the Tourist Office. It turned into a wild goose chase (but we did encounter some geese later in the day) because the office building located at the top of a long hill was being renovated and the temporary address (1.5 km away) was unattended because it turns out it’s only open on Tuesday, Thursday and Friday. Today was Saturday.
Location of Tourist Office (top left). Later we walked along the Seine and visited a park (on the right).
Our trek around the town turned out to be quite interesting (QI). It took us past the the Town Hall (Mairie de Melun on the map) where some sort of celebration was in progress.
Melun’s Hôtel de Ville (Town Hall)
Celebration outside the Town Hall.
Maybe a wedding - but who knows?
Canada Geese on the Seine
We went for a walk along the river (see map above) and encountered these geese and goslings.
The Canada Goose is native to North America but has been introduced to Europe, including France, where it is now commonly found.
They are adaptable birds and can be found in a variety of habitats, including lakes, rivers, marshes, and urban areas such as parks and golf courses.
Canada Geese are known for their migratory patterns, often flying in a distinctive V-formation. However, some populations, especially those in urban areas, may be non-migratory.
Parc Municipal – Faucigny-Lucinge
Further along the river is a municipal park. It was great to get into some greenery.
The entrance to the park is next to the round building on the left.
The round building. Maybe for a gate keeper?
Creating magic.
Magic.
The Collegiate Church of Notre-Dame
11th-16th Century – Historical Monument
Plan and elevation of the façade and towers of the Collegiate Church of Notre-Dame by architect C. Guillaume (1850).
AI translation of the information board outside the church:
King Robert the Pious founded the collegiate church of Notre-Dame, built on the site of an older building, around 1016-1031, and established a community of canons there. The nave, with its large arches and high windows, was constructed in a single effort. The building is covered by a wooden framework, and two towers flank the eastern end from the early 11th century, similar to those of Saint-Germain-des-Prés.
The choir was rebuilt from 1161 and consecrated in 1198. In the 13th century, the upper parts of the nave and choir were adorned with a series of capitals sculpted with bouquets of palm leaves and siren-ossuaries typical of early Gothic art (Sens, Saint-Germain-des-Prés).
In the 16th century, the façade was updated in the Renaissance style. Between 1515 and 1524, the tower was repaired and marked with the emblem of Francis I, the salamander, still visible on the west face, along with the initial of Queen Claude of France.
The canons were dispersed in 1790, the spires were removed, and the western rose window was briall before being restored to religious use and made a parish church again in 1796. It was cleared in 1850 from the enclosure that had encased it since 1811. During restorations from 1853 to 1859, the towers and rose window were uncovered again.
The building was classified as a historical monument in 1840 by Prosper Mérimée, who ensured its inclusion on the list of the 1000 most recommended monuments. Auguste Rodin devoted a text to it in his work “The Cathedrals of France,” where he described the portal of the collegiate church as having “infinite grace.”
The church is right next door to a prison. Not something you see every day.
Church on left. Prison on right.
Barbed wire on the wall.
Back to Paris
Back to chaos.
Dinner at Le Dôme
In the evening we went to the famous seafood restaurant in Montparnasse: Le Dôme. It describes itself as ‘a Parisian Institution’.
AI translation from the blurb on their website:
But what a journey it has been since the humble bistro that opened in 1897 in this then still sleepy peripheral neighbourhood, which would soon come to life with intense artistic activity!
Le Dôme has witnessed all the extravagances of the Belle Époque, then those of the Roaring Twenties before settling down with the rhythm of the neighbourhood.
The bohemians who haunted it emigrated to Saint-Germain before once again being swept away by new trendy spots. Some have passed into posterity, their names forever linked to that of Le Dôme, while others have blended into the nostalgic memory of a time like no other.
We were treated to a most memorable meal by our very generous friend Jean-Christophe. The food, wine and company were excellent.
The Menu
Cathy
Entrée: Soupe de poissons de roche, croûtons à l’ail, rouille maison (Rockfish soup, garlic croutons, homemade rouille). She’s still talking about it.
Main: Dos de cabillaud vapeur, légumes d’hiver braisés (Steamed cod loin, braised winter vegetables)
Greg
Entrée: Carpaccio de daurade sauvage, yuzu et poivre vert (Wild sea bream carpaccio, yuzu, and green pepper)
Main: Émincé de lotte tandoori, crème de champignons, sur lit d’épinards frais (Sliced tandoori monkfish, mushroom cream, on a bed of fresh spinach). So delicious.
Desert: Glace Berthillon (2 boules) (2 scoops of Berthillon ice cream).
Berthillon ice creams and sorbets: 2 scoops of Bourbon vanilla, dark chocolate, mocha, salted caramel, pistachio, passion fruit, raspberry, mango, coconut, blackcurrant, lime, green apple.
My AI buddy knows all about Bourbon vanilla ice cream:
Bourbon vanilla ice cream is a type of vanilla ice cream made using Bourbon vanilla beans.
Bourbon vanilla refers to vanilla beans grown in Madagascar, the Comoros, Réunion, and other islands in the Indian Ocean. The name “Bourbon” comes from the old name of Réunion, Île Bourbon.
This variety of vanilla is known for its rich, creamy, and sweet flavour profile, which makes it highly prized in culinary applications.
When used in ice cream, Bourbon vanilla imparts a distinctive and luxurious taste, characterised by its smooth, full-bodied vanilla flavour with hints of sweetness and a slightly floral aroma.
I can confirm that the ice cream was luxurious and smooth.
The Decor
The decor was a visual treat.
A very happy evening!
Jean-Christophe nous vous remercions très chaleureusement pour votre grande générosité.
Is Nothing Sacred?
On the walk home I saw this extraordinary poster. The French appropriating their own culture for less than cultural ends.
This poster is promoting Winamax, an online gambling platform that offers a variety of betting and gambling options. It includes sports betting, poker and other casino games.
Here in Île-de-France, €1,148,955,657 were won in 2023 on Winamax.
The thought of Louis XIV riding a motorcycle causes me major cognitive dissonance. Apart from anything else, he doesn’t have appropriate leg protection. Tights and heels are not recommended for bike riding. Also the sword might get in the way.
Stay tuned for more adventures on our European Odyssey!