Celtic Spirituality and Ancient Christianity

Iona is often described as a ‘thin place’, a concept from Celtic spirituality.

A thin place is a location where the veil between the physical and the spiritual realms is particularly thin. In such places you get a heightened sense of spiritual awareness and connection. This is part of the great appeal of Iona, in addition to the sheer physical beauty of the place.

St Columba established a monastery on Iona in the 6th century. It became a centre for the spread of Christianity throughout Scotland and beyond.

Today, Iona Abbey is the spiritual home of the Iona Community, an ecumenical Christian religious order, whose headquarters are in Glasgow.

The Abbey is a popular site of Christian pilgrimage.


Getting to Iona

On 24 May we flew from Reykjavik to Glasgow. The Maldron Hotel was nice and close to the railway station for the early start of our journey to the Isle of Iona.

On 25 May we left the hotel at 7:45 am and finally reached our guest house on Iona at 3:45 pm. A big travel day.

We used 4 forms of transport:

  • Train - Glasgow to Oban
  • Ferry - Oban to Craignure (Isle of Mull)
  • Bus - Craignure to Fionnphort
  • Ferry - Fionnphort to Baile Mòr (Isle of Iona)
  • Car – to our guest house: Adoran House

Highlights Slideshow


Glasgow to Iona

Ferry - Oban (Scotland mainland) to Craignure (Isle of Mull)

So peaceful. This is looking back towards the Scottish mainland.

This little guy was moored near the ferry dock in Craignure.

Getting off the ferry at Craignure. Thankfully the bus was waiting nearby. We are also thankful for luggage with wheels.

The bus driver was very friendly and smoked a pipe.


Bus - Craignure to Fionnphort (Isle of Mull)

The bus trip was exciting because the road is only a single lane and narrow. There are lots of ‘passing places’ where you need to quickly assess the situation and work out who is best placed to give way. This often involves some choreography. (More videos of this to come.)

As you can see in the video, the bus driver wasn’t driving slowly.


Ferry - Fionnphort (Isle of Mull) to Baile Mòr (Isle of Iona)

Our first view of Iona from Fionnphort. It’s only about 1 km from Mull across a narrow stretch of water.

That’s Iona Abbey on the left. The hill is Dun Ì and is the highest point on the island. We planned to climb it.

We were met at the ferry and driven the short distance to Ardoran House where we were greeted by our host and concierge, Richard.

Ardoran House.

Our room was top left. We had a view across the water.


Time to Explore

Once we’d unpacked we set out on foot.

The nunnery ruins. According to our guide book, this is one of the best preserved nunneries in Britain.

The two main restaurants on the island have their own organic gardens.

The Abbey Church.

CROIS MHICILLEATHAIN (MACLEAN’S CROSS)

Medieval pilgrims paused here to pray on their approach to the abbey. On this side of the cross [not shown here] they could contemplate eternal interlace designs sprouting from the tails of two beasts. On the other side [shown], is the , poignant image of the crucifixion.

Erected around 1500, the cross was paid for by the powerful Maclean family - a public display of their support for the abbey.

More ruins.

CAIBEAL ODHRAIN (ST ORAN’S CHAPEL)

This was the burial chapel of the MacDonald Lords of the Isles. Built in the 1100s, it is the oldest intact structure on lona.

Go through the decorated doorway to see the remains of an impressive tomb and a collection of elaborately-carved West Highland grave slabs.

This space has an excellent acoustic. I hoped to return with my flute, but it was not be.

Cathy is lighting a candle.

This place looks great from any angle.

CROIS MHARTAINN (ST MARTIN’S CROSS)

This is the only one of Iona’s early high crosses still standing in its original location. It has been on this spot for more than 1,200 years.

Monks read the expertly-carved patterns, symbols and biblical scenes ‘sun-wise], with different messages illuminated depending on the time of day, weather and season.

A the circle at the centre of the cross is the virgin and child surrounded by angels.

Above the virgin (at the top) are lions symbolising Christ’s majesty.

Below the virgin Daniel in the lion’s den, Abraham preparing to sacrifice Issac, King David playing the harp and David defeating Goliath.

This depicts 12 serpents writhing around 6 bosses.

Directly behind the cross is St Columba’s Shrine. The entrance to the church is on the right.

The Abbey Cloister.

Notice the different carvings at the top of each column.

This modern sculpture depicts the incarnation of God through Mary. Very feminine.

Inside the Abbey Church.

We attended a Welcoming Ceremony to welcome the new batch of volunteers workers who come to study and contribute to the work of the Iona Community..

The man himself: St Columba.


These shots were taken about 8:30pm. It was still pretty light.

A lovely end to the day.


Birds on Iona

Birds and their songs were a constant accompaniment to our time on Iona.

Common Blackbird

Such a lovely song.

The Common Blackbird is found throughout the British Isles. Males have a characteristic black plumage and a bright yellow or orange beak.

They are known for their melodious song, which can be heard throughout the year.

Hooded Crow

This hooded crow was a bit scruffy looking. We saw quite a few of these.

Pied Wagtail

The Pied Wagtail (Motacilla alba yarrellii) is commonly found across the British Isles and is known for its distinctive black and white plumage, long tail, and characteristic wagging motion.

We encountered a closely related white wagtail in Iceland at Hotel Hallormsstadur.


Stay tuned for more adventures on our European Odyssey!