Snow, Waterfalls and Mud Pools

A day of snow, waterfalls, a beautiful lake, mud pools and fumaroles, and hot baths.

The forecast was for 2° C and the possibility of snow. Well, they got that right.


Goðafoss – ‘Waterfall of the Gods’.

Foss is Icelandic for waterfall.


Our route. We followed Highway 1 with a side trip to Dettifoss.


Highlights Slideshow


On the Road to Our First Waterfall

It was snowing when we set out. We crossed a river and went through the Akureyri tunnel only to emerge into more snow and overcast conditions.

Auto-generated description: A misty landscape features rolling hills covered in patches of snow and a few buildings in the foothills of distant, snow-capped mountains.

Black rock is basalt. You see it everywhere.

Auto-generated description: A desolate, rocky tundra landscape stretches out under a cloudy, overcast sky with snow-dusted hills in the background.

Another lava field.


Goðafoss

The name Goðafoss means ‘Waterfall of the Gods’. It is one of Iceland’s most iconic and photographed waterfalls.

It is 12 meters high and 30 meters wide, with vast amounts of water rushing down every second, splitting into two broad cascades, before continuing along the beautiful Skjálfandafljót glacial river.

What’s in a name?

The name of this foss dates from Iceland’s conversion to Christianity.

It was said that Lawspeaker Þorgeir Ljósvetningagoði, the chieftain of the area, threw idols of the old gods into the falls after he ruled that his people abandon them for the god of Norway’s pious King Olaf II, canonised as St. Olaf, who was threatening to conquer the heathen commonwealth.

This is recorded in Íslendingabók, a 12th Century account of early Icelandic history recorded by Ari Þorgilsson. This scholar was renowned for his lack of bias towards either superstition or religion and is thus considered one of the most reputable sources of the time to historians.

Auto-generated description: A person wearing a blue jacket and glasses is standing on a rocky path in a desolate, snowy landscape with other people visible in the background.

I’m so glad I invested in a Gore-Tex wet-weather jacket. It’s also wind proof (more or less).

Auto-generated description: A person in winter clothing stands near a railing with a large, scenic waterfall in the background.

Here’s one I prepared earlier.

Auto-generated description: A powerful waterfall cascades over rocky cliffs into a river, set against a backdrop of snowy, mountainous terrain under a cloudy sky.

Auto-generated description: A rocky river flows through a rugged landscape with snow-capped mountains in the background, under a cloudy sky.

Lake Mývatn

Strictly speaking Mývatn should only be used to describe the beautiful lake in North Iceland, but locals often use the term to describe the surrounding area as well.

The lake is 36 square kilometers, making it Iceland’s fourth-largest natural body of water. But unlike most lakes in the country, Mývatn is shallow and rarely gets deeper than 3.5 meters and, so has many lushly vegetated islands rising from its surface. These small islands make the perfect sanctuaries for the many birds in the area, most notably the ducks with at least 13 different species.

The amazing Myvatn area

Auto-generated description: A winding road stretches through a vast, open landscape under a sky filled with clouds and patches of blue.

On the road to Mývatn.

Auto-generated description: A vast, icy landscape stretches towards snow-dusted ridges under a cloudy sky.

A partially frozen lake.

Auto-generated description: A scenic view of a landscape featuring a road, patches of water, vast fields, and distant mountains under a cloudy sky.

Auto-generated description: A vast, grassy landscape features a modest white building to the right and a large, snow-patched mountain under a partly cloudy sky.

Auto-generated description: An overcast sky looms over a calm, reflective body of water with a distant shoreline and a broken wooden fence along the dark sandy beach.

The area is indeed very picturesque.

Auto-generated description: A tilted white wooden gate stands on the black sand shore of a calm body of water with distant hills in the background.

Auto-generated description: A small, hilly island sits in a calm, turquoise body of water under a cloudy sky, with a road and fence in the foreground.

Auto-generated description: A tranquil lake is set against a backdrop of snow-covered mountains and cloudy skies.

Auto-generated description: A snow-capped mountain range overlooks a barren, marshy landscape with scattered shrubbery and patches of water.

Auto-generated description: A car is parked on a narrow road next to a vast, marshy landscape under a blue sky filled with fluffy clouds, with distant snow-capped mountains in the background.

Auto-generated description: A peaceful lakeside scene features a few buildings on expansive grassland with snow-capped mountains in the background.

Mud Pools and Fumaroles

Mt. Námafjall and the Hverir geothermal area

This area is often called Hell’s Kitchen.

Auto-generated description: A scenic landscape with a cloudy sky features a mountainous terrain and a geothermal area emitting steam in the distance.

Fumaroles

Fumaroles are openings in the Earth’s crust, often found in volcanic areas, which emit steam and gases such as carbon dioxide, sulphur dioxide, and hydrogen sulphide. These gases are released from magma beneath the surface.

Here’s a close up of a fumarole:

Auto-generated description: A group of people explore a steamy, rocky landscape under a cloudy sky.

Hell’s Kitchen indeed.

Mud pools

The smell

In the video I mention rotten egg gas (hydrogen sulphide (H₂S)) and sulphur dioxide (SO₂). They are not the same but smell equally bad and are both found (smelled) in volcanic areas.

Auto-generated description: A person in a dark jacket stands facing a barren, rocky landscape with snow-capped mountains in the distance under a partly cloudy sky.

Let’s get back on the road.


Dettifoss

Dettifoss, located in the Jökulsárgljúfur canyon, is arguably the most powerful waterfall in Europe and amongst its most impressive ones. Situated in Vatnajökull National Park and fed by the Vatnajökull glacier, the cascade is 100 meters wide and 45 meters) tall. It has a water flow averaging an unbelievable 193 cubic meters per second.

The Road to Dettifoss. The snow had picked up:

The Walk to Dettifoss:

Auto-generated description: People are walking in a snow-covered, rocky landscape under foggy weather conditions.

Auto-generated description: A powerful waterfall cascades amidst a snowy and rocky landscape.

Auto-generated description: A person dressed warmly in winter gear stands smiling in front of a snowy landscape with a frozen waterfall.

Auto-generated description: A snowy landscape features a steep cliffside covered in swirling patterns of snow and frost, with patches of grass and bare rock visible amid the snowy areas.

The waterfall truly was powerful, but I was more intrigued by these amazing patterns on the ground. My AI buddy has this to say about them:

This natural formation appears to be an example of patterned ground, specifically a type of frost heave pattern often seen in periglacial environments.

These formations are created by the freeze-thaw cycles of ice and soil. As the ground freezes, ice lenses form and push soil particles to the surface, creating distinctive patterns.

The patterns can vary widely, but in this case, it seems to have formed circular and linear designs, likely influenced by the topography and subsurface conditions. This kind of pattern is common in Arctic and sub-Arctic regions, where cold temperatures and seasonal freeze-thaw cycles dominate.

Auto-generated description: An abstract texture featuring swirling patterns and various shades of gray and white, resembling a marbled surface.

Auto-generated description: Aerial view of a snow-covered landscape with swirling patterns in the snow.

Auto-generated description: A detailed, close-up view of a rough, textured surface, resembling natural stone formations with various shades of gray and intricate patterns.

Vök Baths

The Vök Baths are located on Lake Urriðavatn in the Egilsstadir area of eastern Iceland. They were opened in the summer of 2019 and the facilities were designed by the same architect who worked on the famous Blue Lagoon Spa in the southwest of Iceland (we’re going there at the end of our stay in Iceland).

Auto-generated description: A car is driving on a two-lane road through a snow-patched mountainous landscape under a partly cloudy sky.

On the road to the Vök Baths.

Auto-generated description: A vast, partly snow-covered landscape stretches beneath a blue sky with scattered clouds.

Auto-generated description: A white SUV drives along a winding road through a mountainous, partially snow-covered landscape under a blue sky with scattered clouds.

Auto-generated description: A winding road leads towards a vast, snow-covered mountainous landscape under a partly cloudy sky.

A long time ago, locals noticed that when Lake Urriðavatn froze in the winter, there were certain spots where the ice would melt. The Icelandic name for these holes is Vök, and they came to reveal hot springs streaming up to the surface from deep under the lake.

The water at Vök is unique in that the hot spring water is so clean it’s possible to drink it, making it the only drinkable natural hot water in Iceland.

Auto-generated description: A group of people are relaxing in a geothermal pool surrounded by natural scenery with mountains and water in the background.

Auto-generated description: A person is sitting on a dock extending into a serene lake, surrounded by grassy shoreline and rolling hills under a partly cloudy sky.

The temperature in each bath varied, up to 41° C. The lake was about 5° C. Cathy did dip into the lake (very briefly).

Auto-generated description: A geothermal spa complex features multiple pools with varying temperatures, a steam bath, a cold mist tunnel, a bistro, and a pool bar, all set against a scenic backdrop.

Image from the Vök Baths website.


Auto-generated description: A small bird with gray and white plumage stands on a concrete surface with green grass in the background.

This white wagtail joined us for dinner at Hotel Hallormsstadur.


Another big day out.

Stay tuned for more adventures on our European Odyssey!