17 May 2024: West to North Iceland
Lava Cave and on to Akureyri
Although not fully recovered from Covid, we set out from Reykjavik in high spirits.
We had booked an activity: visiting Iceland’s largest lava cave at Viðgelmir. It was a 2-hour drive (137 km) from Reykjavik so we got to see a lot of stunning Icelandic landscape.
After Viðgelmir we had a 4-hour drive on Highway 1 to Akureyri in the north of Iceland. Even more stunning landscape.
Highlights Slideshow
Icelandic Folk Songs
On the drive Cathy wanted to listen to some Icelandic folksongs. I found this wonderful recording.
Icelandic Folksongs by the Hamrahlid Choir
The Hamrahlid Choir (wikipedia)
The first track was just perfect. It uses the techniques of Gregorian Chant: modal scale and harmony using open 4ths, 5ths and octaves (rather than 3rds). The sound is stark, raw and primal, and suits the landscape we were driving through.
Listen to: Island, farsælda frón
Here is a translation of the text (also very appropriate):
Iceland, blessed land
And fortune’s frost-white mother
Where is your ancient glory
Freedom and virtue’s highest?The land is beautiful and free
And snowcap’d glaciers' peaks
The sky is clear and blue
The sea is shimmering bright.
Reykjavik to Viðgelmir
Our car. We had to stop to answer nature’s call.
Basalt outcrops. 90% of the rock in Iceland is basalt.
The Lava Cave at Víðgelmir
Cathy decided to stay warm, so I ventured into the bowels of the earth with just my trusty iPhone.
Lava field Hallmundarhraun. This field dates back to around 900 AD.
From the tour website:
The Cave Víðgelmir is located in a lava field called Hallmundarhraun, which is the largest lava field in Borgarfjörður.
Both the exact starting time and duration of the eruption are not known, but it has been estimated that the eruption lasted 1-4 years and the start of the eruption is usually set at around 900 AD.
Four of the five largest known caves in Iceland are located in Hallmundarhraun, and many other smaller caves are scattered throughout the lava field.
Archaeological remains are found within many of these caves, along with Víðgelmir, but sadly very little is known about most of these remains.
The lava field itself, Hallmundarhraun, is named after the troll Hallmundur, who is mentioned in Grettis saga (one of the Icelandic sagas). In the saga, Hallmundur helps out the main “hero”, Grettir, and then offers him to stay with him and his daughter.
A lava cave, also known as a lava tube, is a type of cave formed by flowing lava from a volcanic eruption. When the surface of a lava flow cools and solidifies while the molten lava beneath continues to flow, it can create a tunnel-like structure.
Once the eruption ceases, the remaining molten lava can drain away, leaving behind an empty tube.
These caves can be extensive, with some stretching for several miles. Lava caves are characterised by features such as smooth walls, ropey textures known as “pāhoehoe,” and sometimes unique mineral formations from volcanic gases.
The only light in the cave came from the torches on our helmets.
We were on a walkway the whole time.
Ice stalagmites. Very alien and beautiful.
Protective covering to shield against the occasional rocks that fall from the roof of the cave.
This shows where part of the roof has fallen in.
These little dangly things are called lava straws.
A lava stalagmite, also know as a ‘candle’. Lava drips down and solidifies.
The walkway extends about 750 meters into the cave. Here you can see how the cave continues after being lit up.
Here’s a video of the big reveal.
Our guide. He told a lot of really bad Dad jokes.
Here’s a video of rock samples that were at the end of the walkway.
Heading back.
One more shot of the lava field.
Viðgelmir to Akureyri
Heading to more mountainous north of Iceland. This part of the journey had a very alpine feel.
We saw a lot of horses.
I love the white buildings with red roofs. Quite common. Nice contrast with the colours of the landscape.
We had great weather but it started to snow as we approached Akureyri.
Stay tuned for more adventures on our European Odyssey!